Coffee Bay has to be our most rural stop on the trip and we love it that way. Travelling from Cape Town and getting to see South Africa as it changes through all the stops up the east coast you really get a sense of how diverse and beautiful this country really is. Driving out of East London and entering the Transkei we watched the landscapes change, we were now in an abundance of grassy hills, meandering rivers, Mud Huts and free range cattle, we had entered a place where people still truly live off the land.
After half a day of driving we had finally made it to the famous Coffee Shack in Coffee Bay, our home for the two weeks we were there. We were welcomed and quickly introduced to the house rules at the bar for which they are infamously known. The term ‘Buffalo’ became very familiar to us during our stay, it basically entails that you may not drink with your right hand whilst in the vicinity of the Bar. Should you be caught drinking with your right hand you’ll hear the cry ‘BUFFALO!’ upon which you’re required to ‘down’ your drink as quick as possible, this became a fun drinking game for all whilst there. Once settled in we all got familiar with our immediate surroundings, we were based right on a river mouth at the bottom of a hill. A short walk across the river and over another hill lay what we all came for, the Coffee Bay beach and point break. It really is a beautiful sight, from the water you’re surrounded by hills and cliffs in clear blue water and from the land you have incredible viewing points of all your surrounds. We were all excited at the potential Coffee Bay held.
The surf in Coffee Bay was very consistent and we were able to get in the water twice a day on most days with the help and guidance of the Coffee Shack surf coaches and owner Dave Malherbe (former competitor on the world tour) assisting us whenever possible. Also known for being one of the heavier waves on our travels it offered quite a challenge. Everybody soon got the hang of it and in no time we were all catching waves. We were also boosted by the arrival of Mr. TTR himself Chris Bond who really gave the guys confidence and assistance in the water. Being that little bit further up the east coast also meant the water had started getting warmer and on a few of the days a wetsuit wasn’t even required which got us all excited as for most it was their first time surfing without one. It is also worth mentioning that Henry got the official first barrel ride of the trip, tucking in under the lip and pumping through to make the exit. Unfortunately the cameras weren’t rolling at the time but there were witnesses who claimed it for him and so he came away with the highly coveted award (a beer).
Being in rural South Africa the guys were able to (through Coffee Shack) experience authentic African culture, we were hosted by a local family in one of the nearby villages where we enjoyed a locally cooked meal by the woman of the households. They sang traditional songs and translated the story behind the songs for us while we all ‘enjoyed’ traditional Xhosa beer made by the men (not the best beer we’ve had but I guess it takes some getting used to). It is a truly unique experience and one I’m sure the guys won’t forget (from New York city to a mud hut in South Africa, theres a story to reminisce over one day).
Besides enjoying the local people we were also fortunate enough to enjoy the local landscapes. We got quite fit over our stay in the Transkei from hiking all over to see what this vast untouched land has to offer. The Mapuzi Cliffs were incredible! We hiked along the coast seeing untouched coastline, got to enter a cave where the local tribes once stored weapons during their times of war and we got to take a dip in what they called a ‘natural jacuzzi’ (it was an ice bucket haha). For those brave enough we also got to do a few cliff jumps. one of the most Iconic parts of Coffee Bay is a place called ‘Hole in the Wall’. It is an outcrop of rock which through thousands of years of erosion formed an archway through which the ocean travels. We once again hiked through the Transkei until we found it, we spent the afternoon Braaing and swimming amongst it.
Every time we visit the Coffee Shack they throw a themed party of some sort and they did so again. The theme this time around was ‘Pimps and Ho’s’. Naturally you’d expect the boys to go as the ‘pimps’ and the girls as the ‘ho’s’ but this time there was a bit of a twist and we all ended up cross dressing. The masculinity of the boys really did not suit the curvature of the girls lovely summer dresses (which I’m certain we ruined), however we all enjoyed ourselves thoroughly and the winners of the best dressed all came from Ticket to ride (credit must go to the girls who went all out on making sure we all looked lovely in their dresses and make-up).
Overall Coffee Bay was a fantastic stop and it really offered us something new and excited, being based in one area with no driving around or travel daily gave us all time to reflect on the trip so far and smile at all the great experiences we’ve already had together as well as grin at the thought of whats to come. It was also humbling to see how simply some people manage to live and how little it takes to be happy as most of us come from major city’s and countries where the demands are so different for daily life. Coffee Bay as always is a rich cultural experience.
With a smile
Luke Geldenhuys