There’s no denying that surfing is tricky stuff. Actually, it is really hard work, it’s a sport where you are always progressing, you never hit a point where you are like “ok, that’s me done, I’m the best I can be” which is awesome but can also be quite frustrating and even more so when you are just starting out. So here are my Do’s and Dont’s for beginner surfers.
Dont’s
The stance: This is always a huge mistake made and it’s usually that you don’t have your feet wide enough apart. If you are to just think logically, having your feet a solid distance apart means you would be more balanced on the board.
Looking Down
Get your head up, guys! Imagine riding a bike down a mountain, you’re not going to look at the handlebars, are you? You’re going to lift your head up and enjoy the view. It’s the same with surfing, so enjoy it! You will also have a lot more stability.
Taking your hands off the board to0 soon: Another fairly common thing you see in beginner surfers, they always seem to take their hands off the board too early. That is, before both feet are in position. Doing this does not give you leverage to get completely on your feet and will leave you bouncing around in the white water on your knees.
Prone Position
The prone position is the lying down position on the board, a fundamental basic that needs to be mastered. If you are too far forward, your weight will be off balance and you will ‘nose dive’, alternatively, if you are too far back, your weight will be too heavy on the back off the board making it very hard to catch the wave, which is what it’s all about;)
Paddle timing: Timing is everything, if you paddle too soon, your too far out in front and the wave itself can break on your back. Or if you paddle too late, you won’t land up catching the wave at all. The best place to be (If you’re catching a green wave) is near the top of the breaking wave. This is one of those frustrating things to master in the beginning but one you’ve ‘got it, it’s like riding a bike. Like everything, practice makes perfect.
Do’s
Don’t do any of the above!
Get fit
It’s simple, the fitter you are the more you can achieve in the water. (Here is cool blog to get you started)
Man Up / Woman Up
You have to believe you can make that takeoff/drop/ section/ barrel or whatever. Otherwise, If you don’t go you’ll never know.
Try different breaks: mix it up and don’t get lazy. Get in at unfamiliar spots, it keeps you sharp and gives you a better understanding of and respect for the ocean.
Reflect
As crazy as it sounds, have a ‘time out’ and appreciate what’s around you! Sometimes we can be so focused on getting the next wave that we stop to notice all the amazing things around us. I’ve had it where the best thing about a surf isn’t the waves but something else like the amazing sunset that lights up the sky, or maybe it’s the feeling of being out in a thunderstorm and feeling the rain on the soles of your feet, maybe if your lucky it’s seeing a pod of dolphins at first light, or maybe just the feeling of catching a moving wall of the ocean all the way to the sand, it’s all pretty incredible. This may sound a bit hippy but this kind of things happen and when they do you just have to appreciate them.
That’s what surfing’s all about, loving what you do and not just loving the waves, sure catching waves is ‘the icing on the cake’ but it’s only one part of the whole thing. So stay humble and stay stoked and remember practice makes perfect!