It has been some time now since our last blog as we have been deep into Mozambique for the last ten days. We were staying at Turtle Cove in Tofo which is walking distance to both the two surf breaks that we surfed (nearer to the better one). Despite being right on the border to South Africa, Mozambique is very different both in its looks and of course its culture, with the main language being Portuguese. Waves wise we did really well in Tofo. Whilst there are great waves there, which I knew, to get good waves for 10 days straight was amazing.
The drive from Ballito up to Tofo was a pretty serious mission. We set off early in the morning, having got rid of our road vehicles for 3 great 4×4’s. Ryan Ribbink, or ‘Bink’ as he is known, has been up to Mozam dozens of times and it was behind his lead as we started the long 17 hour drive up to Tofo. No, we were not crazy, we did have a stopover just past Maputo and 10 hours or driving behind us as well as the border crossings into Swaziland and then Mozambique. We woke up early the next morning and got to Tofo around midday, leaving us plenty of time to settle into our new home and to get in a surf.
The next few days followed a very similar pattern with Dino’s being the call for waves on the higher tide in the afternoon. So while myself and Ryan went fishing around sunrise out on his boast everyone would be fast asleep and could get up as they wish any time in the morning. The accommodation was fantastic, with nice rooms for the group as well as a big shady area, swimming pool, yoga centre and a restaurant/bar which served great food. So the group would tan by the pool, go for a stroll down to the market in town or just relax until lunch which was followed by surf time. One thing that the group learnt up in Tofo was that when it comes to the ocean the tide dictates when you surf. No matter what you did the waves were bad in the morning and cooking by the evening. This slowly changed as the tides changed and the morning surfs started to get better, wind allowing.
The main wave we surfed was Dino’s, aptly named as we would sit at Dino’s restaurant every day as a base to go surfing from. Dino’s is the perfect wave for any level surfer, offering long rights with steeper and weaker sections and an easy but long paddle or run-around to get back out. Many of the group got the best and longest rides of their lives there and their surfing improved in leaps and bounds. Being able to surf the same wave every day really does a lot for your surfing as you get to know the wave and it gave them enough time to practice and implement the coaching which myself, Byron and Ryan were doing. It was a good opportunity for some video coaching too and I did a lot of filming whilst there which you shall see in a video blog in the next week.
The other wave in Tofo, and the one which it is famous for, is Tofinho, or Tofo point. This wave gets absolutely world-class on its day, and although we didn’t quite see it at its best we definitely got a glimpse of it and could see the potential. This was obvious to me when Byron and myself got up a little late one morning only to arrive at the point to Ryan getting two barrels on one wave! It was definitely not at its best, but as I said we could see what it would offer were there more sand on the point. We got a big swell while we were in Tofo which is when the point started to work. It is quite a hairy wave, breaking along a shallow rock shelf, but a lot of the group still gave it a bash and got some great waves. You can take off really far up the point but as you are riding you can see sharp rocks in your peripherals and have to make sure you focus to make it to the more rippable part of the wave further down the point. I had some of the best waves I have had in months!!
The lifestyle in Tofo was really relaxed, as it should be. There are coconut trees everywhere and small stalls and restaurants are where you do your shopping or eating. There is no supermarket or bank and they live a very simple life. Coming from a Portuguese background our staple diet whilst there became chicken and rice, which they certainly know how to cook to perfection!
On two days we drove further afield looking for different waves and came across some perfect empty beaches, although the waves weren’t quite doing their thing, but it was great to get the 4×4’s into gear and explore further afield. In the evenings it would be back to Dino’s however where we knew we would get cooking waves followed by a few cold beers as the sun set before heading back to Turtle Cove.
Everyone really enjoyed it up in Tofo and it was sad to say goodbye and begin our journey back down South towards Ponta and South Africa. We left at just the right time though as the wind finally blew onshore and at least we knew we weren’t missing out. We are now in Ponta do Oura but I will fill you in on the goings on when I put up the next blog.
I took loads of photos and have carefully selected these ones so please give yourself a a bit of time and enjoy scrolling through them.
Obrigado,
Chris