Surfing is becoming increasingly popular, and with so many people getting introduced to surfing through all the surf schools, there will naturally be a knock-on effect of some of those people getting bitten by the bug and may well get hooked for life like the rest of us! If this is you, then I have some very valuable and most importantly impartial information for you!
So, you’ve had your first lesson or two and are now ready for the next step, what is it? You see this is where I have to be blunt and honest and probably crush a few dreams! The next step is of course getting yourself a surfboard, but there are so many options! Ok, no matter how talented you are, you SHOULD NOT jump onto a shortboard straight away. I know you are sitting there thinking “but if I get a bigger board then I will just need to replace it in 6 months”, but actually you don’t. I hate to say this, but having seen it too many times I have to say my next point which is DO NOT necessarily believe everything the cool ‘surfer dude’ at the shop tells you. Some of the shop attendants are very qualified in this area but others are not at all and are just good salesman. So how do you get around this?
Firstly, and you are going to have to trust my 20 years of surfing and nine years of surf coaching on this one; staying on a slightly longer board will not inhibit your surfing in any way! From the surf trips I have run with Ticket to Ride which have seen me take over 150 people from beginner stage to intermediate, the ones who have improved the quickest are the ones with the bigger boards. All you need to do is watch any longboarding movie to realise people can still do pretty amazing stuff on big boards. So for you to get a 7”6 mini-mal (depending on your height and weight) it will certainly help your surfing not hinder it! Yes you can’t ‘duckdive’, but at least you can surf it! You will learn much better technique and control on a bigger board, and your style will be much more aesthetically pleasing for the onlooker as well. Especially if you have started surfing quite late, say over 18 years old, then having a good style and control over your board is going to put you in a much better position than being able to do what you call a ‘snap’ with arms flailing and no speed at all on the wave.
The other choice is where to purchase and who to believe. The key to getting the right board is being true to yourself of your standard of surfing. It is often hard to know your own ability, and this is where your surf coach or doing a ‘one-off’ lesson can help for advice, from someone who is not going to be benefitting financially from your decision. You do NOT need to get an epoxy board (which are more expensive) unless you have a valid reason to. They do get damaged just as easily or more easily than regular boards, the ones I am referring to here are ‘pop-outs’. Most of them are made in China and it is definitely better to get a ‘regular’ board that someone has built. If you are strapped for cash then get a second-hand board, whether it is from a surf shop or if you find it online. A year or two down the line, or with close support from a surf coach, it would be worth getting a custom board which will meet your requirements, if you can’t find the right board in a shop.
Great, now you have your board, go and play on it in the water a few times and then book yourself into a surf lesson for those crucial tips on how to master your new board. Going onto a new board can be one of the most frustrating and demotivating experiences out there, and I have seen a lot of people who buy a board too small and then end up quitting surfing because it is difficult! When you get on your new board you need to find your paddling position and your ‘sweet spot’ when you are up and riding. Don’t worry it is exactly the same 20 years down the line, just that it comes a little quicker and within the first session you will have found that perfect place on the board.
Ok so that is all you need to know about buying your first board, it is an exciting and potentially life-changing moment so cherish it! Alternatively you could go on a surf adventure where you have experienced people guiding you on your path and showing you the ropes! Next up I’m going to be telling you more about fins, what they do and how to know which ones to choose.
Please feel free to comment or ask questions below!
Chris Bond