The barrel, the green room, the pit, the shack, getting slotted, getting pitted, call it what you may, the barrel is the holy grail of surfing! Whether you’ve just got your first barrel or are a seasoned master of the pit, it will be the best feeling you’ve ever had in surfing, and possibly in your life! Why? Well that’s harder to answer, but it’s extremely addictive, and the sound and sensation of being surrounded by water and the way time slows down is second to no other!
There is only one real secret about getting barreled, and that is commitment! Really going for it and not bailing or closing your eyes in the barrel, oh and you’ll need a barreling wave of course!
In this video I break the barrel down for you into the entry, the barrel, and the exit!
The entry: I have covered 3 options here, backdooring the pit, stalling for the barrel, and dropping straight into the barrel!
The barrel: Keep your eyes open, don’t ride too high up the face and try and keep your head as upright as possible to help you keep you balance!
The exit: Depending on the wave you may need to take a high line, get spat straight out, or head for the doggy door!
TOP TIPS:
Commit to the barrel, did I mention that? Keep your eyes open. Stand tall if the wave allows. Move both feet further forward on your board. Enjoy the view!