“The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun”, this I will live by when out there in the ocean from now on….
Whilst growing up in Durban and being surrounded by really great surfers, one could possibly say and feel that one needs to be in top form at all times to compete mentally and physically with these great surfers around. Years after hanging up my competitive rash vest, I still find myself in a competitive mode when I hit those waves!
Being competitive, even with one’s self, is not always a bad thing, but can have its downside when one is older (and wiser) and heavier and take off at your home break (Ansteys), expecting to perform at top level and realise it is just not happening.:)
I decided that today after my experience in the ocean, it was a good time to write this blog…..
5 years ago I relocated to the Mother City, from being a born and bred Durbanite, to chase the dream of dominating the Advertising Industry.
Living in Cape Town is at times not for the faint-hearted as it is a fast-paced city and I find it to be taxing on the soul at times. I am currently in my home suburb of the Bluff for a few weeks to escape the ‘rat race”.
A childhood friend, Heidi Palmboom made a call to me this morning, to confirm the surf at Ansteys was ‘pumping’ and I should get my head off the pillow and hit the waves before work! I grabbed my board, excited to surf warm Durban water and cranking waves! As I turned into the beach road, I instantly felt the overwhelming competitive mindset kick in. The perfect lines running from the backline through to mid break caught my eye and I needed to be there! I needed to rip through those waves in front of all the ‘locals’ who watched me grow up in this ‘back yard” THIS DID NOT HAPPEN!
Waves were either eluding me or I was being thrown over the falls! After minutes turned to hours, my blood was boiling, I was disappointed, frustrated and embarrassed at my lack of skill and poor performance, but I noticed an elderly gent, who clearly was not a regular surfer by the way he was lying on his board awkwardly. This individual continued to try and the difference between him and I was, no matter the outcome he was still in a happy state, by his smile! Understandably this gent saw and sensed my frustration by my actions and when he paddled by, he said this to me…” I have watched you surf these waves for the past 20 years and clearly today you are not surfing at a standard you are accustomed to, but you are forgetting the reason you are here today. To be close to nature, and enjoy the experience of a pod of dolphins dancing in the water between us” This individual blew me away, he instantly changed my mood and everything negative drifted away! It did not end there…as he paddled away he said “the best surfer out here today is the one having the most fun and today that is me”
His words sank in, rang in my ears and I doubt I will ever forget them…..in an instant in the huge ocean, I was forced to evaluate my happiness, my actions and my mood and realised that I am in control of my life in its entirety and how I choose to be..….thank you Ballie (Old man), your words of wisdom hit home!
Ironically my very next wave was a cracker of a wave right across the beach but had I been bouncing around in whitewater only, I would have been equally as happy!
Stay stoked!
