Generating and holding speed is the essence of good surfing. This doesn’t mean just racing down the line, sometimes you need speed to make it past a section, other times it is linking you from turn to turn, or even driving through a fast barrel. There are many ways to get speed, and different surfers have different styles of doing so. Filipe Toledo for example can generate a lot of speed in a short space of time on the open face to go and do a big aerial, while Tom Curren uses the wave to generate his speed, seldom requiring him to force anything. Mick Fanning is generally accepted as the fastest surfers in the world, with a point of difference against his rivals when it comes to holding his speed from one turn to the next!
Fortunately, the basics of generating speed are quite simple and can be applied even to a surfer learning to go across the face for the first time, and they aren’t that different to your top surfer doing airs and the like. Let me break it down for you.
Use the wave face: By the wave face I mean use the whole wave face! If you are more of a beginner then just stay higher up the face of the wave and angle down and you will go fast. For and experienced surfer, you need to make sure you are going between the top third and bottom third of the wave, over exaggerate it as in the photo below!
Use your legs: The more you compress and extend your legs, the more speed you will get in your surfing, it has to do with Physics and Newton’s Third Law. The lower you go the more force you can exert on your board which will project you forward in the case of a surfboard. The KEY factor though is that the board must be on the rail, so the combination of compressing and leaning will give you speed!
Use your arms: The most common mistake when it comes to turning a surfboard as surfers get better is not using their arms to help generate speed. It is a natural reaction to counter balance the speed with your arms, but if you can change this habit the world is your oyster! A basic rule of thumb here is to keep your trailing hand within your peripheral vision at least.
TOP TIPS:
- Cut a piece of hosepipe and hold it while you surf with one hand at either end. The length should be approximately the distance between your hands when you arms are parallel to your shoulders and bent 90 degrees at the elbow infront of you.
- Over exaggerate how much of the wave face you use, go further down to the bottom and higher up the face of the wave, see how far you can push it. It’s okay to fall while you figure it out!
- Some boards are much faster than others as well, more volume, straighter rails, as well as fin templates or fin setups (quads are faster), so if you are really battling with speed you can play with your equipment too.