Wild West

Chris Bond


15 years ago in Costa Rica

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Hello everyone,

I know the trip hasn't started yet and I'm sure all of you coming out here are smitten with excitement, so I thought I'd just liven your taste buds up with a little taste of Centro America and my adventures over the past 10 days.

I flew into San Jose, Costa Rica on 7th Jan, stayed the night, battled hard with my bank card in the morning (eventually getting it to work after calling the bank several times) and started my trek up to Northern Nicaragua. It was a 2 day mission, starting on the reasonably priced and moderately luxurious Tica Bus (think National Express). 12 hours (3 of which were spent sweating profusely at the border) I arrived in the capital of Nicaragua, Managua. It has a less than sweet reputation especially at night time so I headed straight for the nearest hostel. 

Morning comes early in Central America, with temperatures reaching the thirties over midday it has too! Its hard enough going for a surf in those temperatures, let alone doing a days solid graft! (I lied there, its not actually hard going for a surf at all, especially when the water is 8 degrees at home!) Anyway, heading down the the city's national bus station I looked for the bus to take me on my next leg of the journey…the aptly named 'Chicken Bus'!! Amidst the hustle and bustle of an early morning market place / bus station I found my way to the right bus and we set off!

Another half day later and I arrive at my destination. A small fishing village in Northern Nicaragua. I have been asked not to name names by the locals as it is regarded as a bit of a secret spot, so you'll have to ply me with a few 'Cerveca's' when you see me to get the low down!
I was staying with a local family in their humble 'hospedaje' or hostel. It has only 2 rooms and is the quintessential Nicaraguan house, with home cooking and very little English conversation! My Spanish phrase book is now more 'thummed' than all the menus in Jamie Oliver's restaurants put together! 

My time there flew by in a haze of early mornings, siestas, some of the best waves in my life and a lot of 'gallo pinto' (a local rice and beans dish)! My staple diet became gallo pinto, fresh fish, coconut milk and raw sugar cane. My staple activities…errrr…surfing, surfing and some fishing when the winds went onshore!

One of the most beautiful places my travels have taken me to yet and full of the most welcoming, hospitable people. It is a stark contrast coming from living in London during the midst of an economic recession, to living with people who will never own a pair of shoes in their life! 

I am sat writing this in a hostel in Leon, Nicaragua on my way back down to Costa Rica. It is full of travelers on their various paths up and down this great continent, and I am about to go and grab a nice cold beer and listen to some war stories from the Wild West!

I hope this sparks your imagination and gets the excitement levels rising for those of you about to join me out here!

Until next time….

Sam