Mozambique, our home for 3 weeks is as Lauren put it “the most beautiful place I have ever been”. To say we are loving life in our little tropical paradise would be a big under-statement. After a two day drive (midway stay over at the Honey Pot) north across the South African and Swaziland border we arrived at our destination in Tofinho, a small tourist and fishing town 23km outside of Inhambane. We got settled in at our backpackers, a lovely spacious and quiet yoga retreat called Turtle Cove, when we weren’t surfing we’d spend our time relaxing and resting in the hammocks and on the couches at the bar rejuvenating for our next surf session. At night if we were looking for a bit of a party we’d take a short walk across the street to Mozambeat and enjoy their pool bar, live music and social atmosphere.
Toninho is a tropical paradise with the bluest, clearest and warmest ocean water, an abundance of sea life, yellow sand beaches with coconut trees, coral reefs and bikini weather. In our almost immediate vicinity we have a number of waves to choose from, the most popular of these is the Toninho point break. The wave is so good that many professionals have travelled here to surf it in-between competitions, the man who brings the pro’s here also so happens to be the man who brings us through, Ryan Ribbink. Ryan is a multiple former SA surfing champion who has been coming to Mozambique regularly since the turn of the millennium, he is our guide and surf guru while here.
In Mozambique you learn quite quickly that having a 4×4 is definitely the only way to go, especially if you’re surfing. Ryan kitted us out with two 4×4 vehicles which got us all excited as we first put them to the test on our off-road journey to Barra Beach in search of waves. Taking the back road we got see how the local people live in their straw hut villages with their live stock and fresh produce. The people in this area work and live off the land and sea. As we drive past kids and adults alike greet us from the side of the road with such enthusiasm, for some of the kids it could potentially be the first time they’ve seen a white person. The beauty and scenery of the drive really fills your cup and you could tell it filled everybody’s heart and soul alike with copious amounts of joy. This is a Surf trip the way everybody dreams of it!
A short trip down (walking distance) from our home in Tofinho is the main beach in Tofo, a place where tourists and holiday goers spend most of their time sun bathing and sipping on cocktails or a local beer from the market place. The market in Tofo is the cultural hub of the area, local artisans, fisherman and farmers all commute daily to trade their goods in a very competitive environment. The energy there is intense but fun as you get to mingle with the everyday Mozambican going about their trade. The arts and crafts are also something to behold, there are a few sighs from the guys as they are unable to purchase most of what is on offer as it would be near impossible to get it back home. The Mozambicans are a lovely, friendly people. At night the Market comes alive with music playing in the streets and restaurants alive with energy. The local cuisine is also very tasty, everything is as fresh as it gets.
Ryan took a couple of the guys out fishing between surfs which meant we’d get to feast on whatever they’d bring home, the ocean in Mozambique is alive and abundant in marine life, peace of mind for us is that there are hardly any Shark around. The most common shark you’ll see in these parts also happens to be the most docile and timid shark in the ocean, the Whale Shark. Though huge!! They are incredibly peaceful and friendly and you’re able to swim with them. It is also not uncommon for you to see Manta-Rays, Dolphin, Humpback Whales, Turtles, Marlin, and many other large game fish out here. The guys all went in search of these on their ocean safari and were rather unlucky and unable to see many of the above but they did however get to snorkel at an outer reef and see many smaller colourful fish, a fun day out at sea none the less.
Our stay in Toninho is coming to an end but our next stop in Ponta is one that also promises to be incredible. The waves are glass perfection at the moment in Tofinho so we’re about to head out and grab a few waves.
Till next time, cheers
Luke Geldenhuys