A Thai Green Curry and hearing various friends’ backpacker stories was the closest taste of Asia I’d had in early 2015. By May that year, I was landing amongst the coconut trees of a tropical paradise, surrounded by smiling faces and a beautiful aloha vibe, and the next thing I know I was on a boat heading out for my first surf in the crystal clear waters of the Cemetery surf spot. I’ll never forget that first day in Siargao Island, and the next 6 months felt like a honeymoon in the Surfing Capital of the Philippines.
So how did I end up in this slice of paradise?
Venturing to South East Asia was high on my list, but a Full Moon Party with thousands of UV painted drunkards was the kind of travel I was keen to avoid. Progressive waves, tropical waters and a diverse culture was what I wanted, and for many, this port of call would be the infamous Indonesia. I ended up heading to a place I’d never even heard of…
This tear drop shaped island is one of the 7,000 that make up the Philippines Archipelago, and I was fortunate enough to have landed a Resort Manager job for Buddha Surf Resort. Thanks to Ash the owner and his awesome collective of family and friends, they gave me the chance to truly experience this magical place.
Photo by Josh Hillman
Surfing in Siargao?
I was a pretty amateur surfer when I arrived at the island (not to say I’m great now). A fine balance of French cheese, bread and beer in France had set me up with one lazy paddle. I wasn’t sure what to expect when I went out for my first surf with Ash the resort owner. The cemetery was the spot we headed to, and even though it sounded deadly…I paddled out from the boat with a chunky longboard for my first surf session.
3ft and cruisey, it was the perfect welcome to the warm crystal clear waters of Siargao. I caught a load of waves and my stoke levels were through the roof. The months ahead really gave me a chance to improve my surfing, and also experience the staggering difference in waves that this island harnesses from its typhoon driven swells.
The infamous heavy barreling right hander known as Cloud 9 has been drawing surfers from all over the globe since the early 90’s. However for most of us, getting shacked on one of the top 10 waves in the world isn’t quite as easy as we’d wish.
John Mark Tokong – Cloud 9 Masters 2015
Rest assured Cloud 9 is only one spot amongst the 27kms of the island’s wave ridden coastline – you just have to know where to find them. Here are a few insights into my favourite spots listed in difficulty from easy to hard.
Daku – A 10-minute boat ride from General Luna, this is one long right hander when conditions are right. Best surfed at a mid to high tide, this is one of the best beginner/intermediate/longboard spots I’ve ever been to. Starting with a relatively slow takeoff, it breaks over a deep reef and delivers one long cruisey ride. It can get quite busy here due to its popularity with beginners and instructors, but time it right & you’re guaranteed a fun session with burning arms from the paddle.
Cemetery – Named simply because it breaks opposite the cemetery on land, this kilometre stretch of left and right-hand waves is an awesome, often uncrowded spot. Generally a very forgiving wave with many peaks, it’s a great spot to improve your surfing whether you’re a beginner or above. When it’s small with an offshore wind, the waves break at shoulder height, leaving glassy fun faces for you to carve on. If it’s big then you can expect mammoth rollers coming in from the depth of the Pacific. At times hard to catch, but as soon as you’re in the sweet spot…there’s a good chance you’ll ride some of the biggest waves of your life…I certainly did.
@ikitagudo
Tuason Point – Bar Cloud 9 this is the most accessible wave in Siargao. A short walk from the road through the coconut trees and you’re there. During my first few weeks, I veered away from Tuason due to its sharp reef, shallow waters, and possibly its reputation as one of the craziest left-handers on the island. However, as my surfing improved I really grew to like this spot. On an average swell, it has 3 different peaks which are somewhat split up to your ability, it can be a little messy but with persistence, in reading it I caught a load of fun waves here…mostly ending in closeouts though to be fair.
Cloud 9 – HEAVY! During a big swell, its power and difficulty are evident as there are only a handful of next level rippers out. There’s a reason this wave is in the top 10 in the world. On smaller days you may hear the spot being called it’s alter ego – “Crowd 9”. It seems every tourist needs to say they’ve surfed Cloud 9, and on smaller days the place is awash with 40+ people. Such a rad spot to view local and foreign rippers from the wooden tower, but I only had a few fun sunrise sessions here as it was too hectic. Nevertheless, it holds the crown for putting Filipino Surfing on the global map.
Where are good places to eat and drink in Siargao?
Forget the Thai Green curry as my taste of Asia…Siargao has some of the tastiest food options that I’ve ever encountered. With a fine blend of Filipino & Asian food intergrated with Western, I love the range of food available in both taste and price.
A lot can change in 2 years, and I am fully aware there’s been some great additions to what’s on offer in Siarago since my time there. Nevertheless I am looking forward to returning to the cuisine and comforts of the following places:
The delicious fried breakfasts and Pad Thai at Buddhas Surf Resort, a fine taste of Italy in Kermit’s pasta, the juiciest BBQ of your life at Mama’s Grill, chilled vibes and healthy food at Kityas, a more upscale yet incredible pizza and seafood at Kalinaw, Filipino dishes with a western fusion at Harana’s, the coconut bread from the street vendors, or the energy boosting Shaka breakfast bowls…my mouth is watering right now as I rekindle my experiences there.
As far as a few drinks and a party goes, the island brings a very chilled vibe. When you’re governed by the sun rising at 5:30am, late nights are taking over by the thirst for early morning surf.Most of the drinks and good times circulate around different resorts, but if you’re after a chilled beer or a good cocktail there’s plenty to be found. I am aware that many of my old party spots are no longer alive, but Viento del Mar’s Art nights and Friday night showdowns are always super fun. If you’re after a late night party hit the Jungle Disco. One glorified bass heavy cowshed, this place can get wild. For me the standout nights were ones embracing the musical talents of the likes of Midras, Marlo & Kitya. These guys bring some next level jams, and even though I experienced most of these in Buddha’s Acoustic nights, their good vibes and talent spread far and wide through Siargao.
Where can I buy surfboards and surf gear?
Homegrown brands have emerged alongside the thriving surf scene. With brands like Kudo Surf creating eco-friendly and sustainable surf apparel & equipment for salty people, offering everything from clothing to hardware all made in Siargao, these guys are on a strong wave of solid design. Across the pond in Davao City the brand Reefside Surf Co. have spawned from the surf and skate culture offering rad tee designs with local artist collaborations.
Grabbing a fresh pair of board shorts wasn’t as easy as I’m used to when I first got to the island, but the growth of Fat Lips surf shop has certainly changed that. With everything from Hurley boardshorts and girls surf bikins, to sunglasses, surfboards as well as board hire…this shop has brought a load of good products to the island for a very affordable price. Growing organically through supporting the local surf community, it’s going to be interesting to see how this shop has grown since I’ve left.
For those wanting to purchase a new finely crafted stick, there’s no place other than Cocosurf. Offering custom PU and EPS surfboards shaped by the master Din Litangan and his apprentice Elmie Guriral, this grass roots company in partnership with Ashley Charles are offering some beautiful creations. Cocosurf were awaiting their first blanks when I left the island, but having seen what’s coming out the shop I’m frothing to get my own custom from them.
Din Litangan – Photo by Cocosurf
What else is there to do in Siargao when you’re not surfing?
Kicking back to the mellow island paced vibes takes a few days to get used to, but the serene beauty of this island will never leave you bored. Whether walking down empty beaches with golden sands, exploring the carabao (buffalos) bathing in mud in the jungle, or heading into General Luna town itself to see the markets and meet some lovely local people, Siargao is full of life and visual treats.
A short 10 minute boat ride from General Luna you can go on an Island Hopping Trip, so close to the island but a great escape to a beautifully tranquil island vibe. Traveling on land instead of water, Magpupunko Rock pools with its crazy rock formations and crystal clear waters are the closest thing you can get to natures infinity pool. For those wanting to venture further by boat in search of secret coves, beautiful lagoons and do some caving, then Sohoton Caves about 2 hours south of Siargao is one epic daytrip. Exploring one of the largest Mangrove forests in the Philippines can be done in Sugba Lagoon, and chilling at the house in the middle of the water is simply surreal. For those that want to explore what lies beneath the waves, Palaka Dive Center offer some awesome Scuba Trips to spots like the Blue Cathedral, however Freediving with them is the one for me! For you Yogis, Dojo’s run one well respected practice in a beautiful setting.
Alternatively, rent a scooter, meet some cool people and get lost in paradise.
Community & Vibe
No matter how good of a wordsmith you may be, no words can truly describe the peaceful aloha magic of Siargao Island. With a wealth of beautiful scenery, clean beaches, solid waves, great food, chilled vibes and a gathering of some of the friendliest most caring people on the planet, you truly need to experience this place to believe it.
Many compare Siargao Island to Bali thirty years ago. I’d never been to Bali at the time, but currently writing this from the Ticket to Ride Indonesia trip I feel like I can give you a solid breakdown. Siargao is not Bali. I love Bali for its unbelievably consistent waves, the geography of the island and some of the more remote pure areas. However Kuta is a circus of madness, and whilst I think I could live in the food heaven & hipster capital of Canggu for the rest of my life, the places here are so enthralled with people you can’t compare it to the chilled vibes of Siargao. The island isn’t overthrown with mass tourism, money greedy resorts or restaurants that deliver crap food. The beaches aren’t lined with plastic & you aren’t hassled by salespeople whilst having a relaxing coconut. The island seems to be growing organically and thoughtfully in a manner that possibly Bali wish it could’ve done in hindsight.
With a thriving community of resort owners, artists, musicians and local rippers all pulling together to grow humble, whilst expanding in an environmentally friendly manner, I can’t wait to return to this utopia to catch up with the awesome community of people that really make this place special and welcome everyone in. With more flights, a film feature on the Island, and the simply act of myself writing this blog without a doubt aids in the growth, change and exposure to Siargao Island. However I hope this pocket of paradise grows as green and bright as the sun that graces it.
I can’t wait to return to Siargao with Ticket to Ride, we’re going to be staying at the awesome Harana Surf Resort & i’m super amped for it.
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